


Dawit arrives in Gonder after a short, tense road hop from Gorgora, settles into a guesthouse, and walks the wet streets past Fasil Ghebbi. He reflects on the security situation, t…

On his final full day in Gorgora, Dawit takes one last boat trip, settles his bill at the guesthouse, and reflects on the cost of slow living by Lake Tana before heading east to La…

Dawit spends his final day in Gorgora before heading east, taking one last tankwa crossing to a monastery, checking in on the new eco resort, and reflecting on the town's quiet tra…

On day four in Gorgora, Dawit explores the rocky shoreline at Lake Tana's seasonal high, watches ospreys hunt, visits Susenyos' palace ruins, and reflects on the slow rhythms of th…

On day three in Gorgora, Dawit experiences the tail end of the Ashenda festival, checks out the new eco lodge's impact on the waterfront, and considers the town's future against it…

Dawit spends a full day on Lake Tana, taking a tankwa boat to Mandaba Medhane Alem and walking through the forest to Birgida Maryam. He reflects on the legacy of Emperor Susenyos,…
