
Podcast

Dawit arrives in Gonder after a short, tense road hop from Gorgora, settles into a guesthouse, and walks the wet streets past Fasil Ghebbi. He reflects on the security situation, t…

On his final full day in Gorgora, Dawit takes one last boat trip, settles his bill at the guesthouse, and reflects on the cost of slow living by Lake Tana before heading east to La…

Dawit spends his final day in Gorgora before heading east, taking one last tankwa crossing to a monastery, checking in on the new eco resort, and reflecting on the town's quiet tra…

In the final days of the kiremt season, Dawit walks the high-water shoreline of Lake Tana, checks in on the new Gorgora Eco Resort's arrival, and reflects on the town's quiet rhyth…

On day four in Gorgora, Dawit explores the rocky shoreline at Lake Tana's seasonal high, watches ospreys hunt, visits Susenyos' palace ruins, and reflects on the slow rhythms of th…

On day three in Gorgora, Dawit experiences the tail end of the Ashenda festival, checks out the new eco lodge's impact on the waterfront, and considers the town's future against it…

Dawit spends a full day on Lake Tana, taking a tankwa boat to Mandaba Medhane Alem and walking through the forest to Birgida Maryam. He reflects on the legacy of Emperor Susenyos,…

Dawit arrives in Gorgora after a wet road trip from Bahir Dar, settles into a lakeshore guesthouse, explores the old Portuguese cathedral ruins and Susenyos' palace, and watches a…

On his final full day in Bahir Dar, Dawid checks in on the city's new airport terminal and the stadium buzzing ahead of the Senegal match, then walks the lakefront as thunderstorms…

On his final full day in Bahir Dar, Dawit walks to the Blue Nile Falls at full flood, crosses the river by local boat, and reflects on the power of the water, the city's rapid chan…

Dawit spends his eleventh day in Bahir Dar observing the annual battle against water hyacinth on Lake Tana, talking with locals about the lake's health, and reflecting on the city'…

Dawit takes the public ferry across Lake Tana, walks the waterfront as the city wakes, and shares what daily life in Bahir Dar actually costs — from a roadside ful breakfast to the…

Dawit spends a full day in Bahir Dar learning the local cost of living, from breakfast to an evening meal, embracing the rainy season and body-level effects of the Blue Nile. He en…

On his eighth day in Bahir Dar, Dawit takes the public ferry to Kibran Gebriel, the male-only island monastery, shares buna with a priest, and grapples with the rules, the politics…

On day seven in Bahir Dar, Dawit visits the new international stadium construction, shares a buna with workers, and reflects on the city's push for modernity against the ancient rh…

Dawit explores Bahir Dar's new stadium construction, savors the city's coffee culture at a local cafe, and reflects on the daily life, costs, and politics of living by Lake Tana du…

Dawit spends his fifth day in Bahir Dar watching tankwa boats on Lake Tana, visiting the fish market and a craft workshop, and reflecting on the river's power and the region's tens…

Dawit spends a rainy day in Bahir Dar, exploring the new airport terminal, the lakeshore fish market, and the city's evolving urban landscape, all while reflecting on the Blue Nile…

Dawit spends a rainy day in Bahir Dar exploring the thundering Blue Nile Falls at full flood, crossing the historic Portuguese bridge, and reflecting on the river's immense power a…

Day two in Bahir Dar: Dawit explores the lakeshore, takes a boat to the Zege Peninsula monasteries, visits Ura Kidane Mihret at full flood, and reflects on the Blue Nile's power an…
